Leftover knob holes are plugged and filled so the new colour hides them completely, and new holes for pulls are bored off a jig so each handle sits level. Tired hinges get swapped during cabinet painting, since the doors are down anyway.
A handle swap is the cheapest change anyone can see, and guests spot it before anything else once the paint is dry. Quotes often gloss over it, so ours lists hardware as a separate line with the quantity shown.
Kitchens from that period usually got one small brass or oak knob per door and drawer. Switching to longer bar pulls means filling the old holes and drilling new ones, and we put that labour on the cabinet painting quote before any drill comes out.
Old holes are plugged with wood, filled, sanded smooth and primed, and after cabinet painting they are invisible. We bore new holes after primer and before the last coats, so any tiny splinter is filled and hidden.
The jig sets every hole, instead of a tape measure on each door. Even one pull sitting a bit low stands out from the other side of the kitchen.
Doors that swing open on their own or bang shut are riding on worn hinges, and adjusting a loose hinge does not cure it. New hinges cost little to add during cabinet painting, since every door is off its frame at that point.
Most East Credit kitchens from the late 1980s onward use concealed European cup hinges. Those swap for soft-close versions using the same cup hole in the door, which makes the upgrade quick.
Cathedral uppers that are being replaced with new shaker doors get new hinges bored to match. More on new doors sits under cabinet refacing and door replacement.
Brushed brass and soft gold are now the most asked-for finishes, matte black stays common in modern rooms, and brushed nickel still has its fans. The sample door helps with this choice, since brass looks quite different against warm white than against cool grey.
Handle length shifts the style more than most people guess. A long bar spanning a wide drawer looks current. A short pull or a cup pull on that same drawer feels classic.
Metals can be mixed if one rule is kept: one finish per zone. The cabinet colour consultation page goes over matching hardware with paint colour.
Changing hardware during cabinet painting costs less than changing it later. The doors are already down, the old holes are filled before primer, and new holes are drilled before the final coats.
Adding new pulls after cabinet painting means drilling through a finished coat, which risks chips around the hole. That is why we settle the hardware plan before cabinet painting begins.
Tightening a handle onto paint that is still soft stamps a permanent outline of its base. For that reason the hardware is the last step of cabinet painting, once the doors hang again and the hinges are set.
That last step is also where the gaps get lined up. We keep turning hinge screws until the gaps run even down the line, and that fussy step is the difference between a finished kitchen and a merely painted one.
Handles, patched holes, fresh boring and new hinges are each listed with their own price in the cabinet painting quote, so nothing hides inside one total. Call +1 (365) 217-9589, tell us the hardware style you like, or explore the rest of the site.
Ensuite vanities, laundry uppers, pantry towers and wall units are primed and topcoated just like the kitchen.
Kitchen cabinet painting gives a tired 1990s kitchen a fresh colour and a tough sprayed coat, and the boxes, countertop and sink never leave the wall. Each door is cleaned, scuffed, primed to suit its wood and sprayed before it is rehung.
See Kitchen Cabinets
Arched cathedral doors can be painted as they are, filled to a square top, or swapped for flat shaker doors while the rest of the kitchen is painted. Cabinet painting on these doors starts with one decision about the curve, and we price every option at the visit.
See Cathedral Doors
Oak cabinet painting needs a stain-blocking primer because oak tannin bleeds brown through water-based products. The open grain also telegraphs through paint unless it is filled level before the topcoats go on.
See Oak Cabinets
Cabinet refinishing removes the old clear coat by sanding or stripping, refreshes the stain tone and locks the colour in under a fresh sprayed clear topcoat. We recommend it instead of paint whenever the grain is the best feature in the room.
See Refinishing
A spray gun breaks the coating into tiny droplets that flow together and level before they set, leaving no brush lines or roller stipple. Cabinet painting applied this way looks much like a finish from a cabinet factory.
See Spray Painting
Shiny factory doors keep paint only when a purpose-made bonding primer goes on first and the surface itself is still firmly attached. Cabinet painting does well on solid melamine and firmly bonded thermofoil, but a vinyl skin that is already lifting is past saving with a coating.
See Thermofoil and Melamine
Refacing hangs brand-new doors and drawer fronts on the carcasses already in your kitchen, while door replacement swaps only the few doors that are damaged or out of style. Both are often paired with cabinet painting so the new and old parts finish in one matching colour.
See Refacing and New Doors
Light uppers over darker lowers, or a painted perimeter with a contrasting island, are the two-tone layouts people ask for most. A lone island is a full cabinet painting job in its own right and one of the quickest ways to change a room.
See Two-Tone and Islands
Most vanities take one or two days, and no job we do is easier to live around. The doors are sprayed at the shop, the base is sprayed on site, and after cabinet painting the bathroom is back in service fast.
See Bathroom Vanities
Condo and townhouse kitchens are small, usually ten to twenty doors, and the job moves quickly once the building rules are sorted out. Cabinet painting in a shared complex works best when parking, work hours and noise are planned first.
See Condo Kitchens
Pantry cupboards, laundry uppers, mudroom lockers, family room wall units and bookcases receive the primer and sprayed enamel the kitchen does. Since most are fastened in place, their cabinet painting happens on site inside a plastic tent.
See Pantries and Built-Ins
Paint chips under store lights are a poor guide, so we spray one of your actual doors in your favourite candidate shade and leave it standing in the room. The shades we are asked for most in cabinet painting right now are warm white, cream, greige, sage and deep green.
See Colour ConsultationWe visit, tally each door and drawer, identify the material and list the whole job on paper. Neither the visit nor the quote costs you anything.
Share any cabinet details you have handy, and we will call to book a time. The form goes through with just a name and a number. To talk it over by phone, call +1 (365) 217-9589.
