Sprayed Cabinet Painting Outlasts Brushed Paint
Brush ridges never level out completely, and they show most on rails and inside raised panels. Under pot lights or the window light over a sink, those ridges show from across the room.
With sprayed cabinet painting, each coat goes on thin and even, with a light scuff before the next. Thin and uniform also means tough, while a heavy brushed layer stays soft longer and chips at the edges first.
Look at the busiest spots for proof. At the handles and along the cutlery drawer's top edge, a cured sprayed coat holds up for years, whereas brushed paint in the same spots wears through far sooner.
Raised Panels And Cathedral Arches Need A Spray Gun
Profiled doors are where brushing does the most harm. The bevel around a raised panel and the inside corners of an arched top rail collect extra paint from a brush, which sags, pools and stays soft.
Spray reaches into the profile and lays down the same thickness on the bevel as on the flat. Since most East Credit kitchens have raised-panel lowers and many have arched uppers, this explains why every bit of our cabinet painting is sprayed. The cathedral door cabinet painting page covers those doors.
Booth Spraying And In-House Spraying Each Have A Job
Fronts are what visitors look at, so fronts get the booth. No dust landing on a wet coat, steady temperature and doors lying flat while they dry all give a better finish than spraying doors in a kitchen.
Boxes stay on the wall, so we build a clean spray zone around them. On-site cabinet painting uses plastic taped from floor to ceiling, runners on the floors, exhaust fans pulling air outside and masking on the rooms beside the kitchen. Set up properly, the overspray stays in the tent and nobody has to move out.
Open-Concept Main Floors Need Wider Containment
Plenty of Heartland houses have an open main floor where kitchen, breakfast nook and family room run together. That means the plastic for in-house cabinet painting has to seal a wider area than it would in a closed kitchen.
We tape plastic from floor to ceiling around the kitchen, cover the family room furniture and vent the extraction out a window. Cabinet painting in an open floor plan takes more setup, and the quote shows that setup as its own line.
Two Coatings Cover Almost Every Cabinet Painting Job
Waterborne alkyd enamel flows out smoothly, tints to nearly any shade and gives off little smell. Recoating takes several hours, light use can start after about seven days, and full hardness takes roughly four weeks.
Catalyzed two-component urethane is mixed with its hardener moments before spraying. It sets by chemical reaction, is fully hard within about a day and handles scrubbing better than any other coating we use for cabinet painting. For a busy family kitchen, it is often our pick.
Below either topcoat goes a primer suited to whatever the door is made of: shellac-based for oak, maple and cherry, bonding primer for melamine, laminate and well-attached thermofoil. Primers for slick doors are explained under thermofoil, melamine and laminate cabinet painting.
Waterborne cabinet painting coatings firm up as their water leaves, and humid air holds that water in. Muggy July and August weather in Mississauga lengthens the wait between coats.
Our booth keeps the doors on schedule regardless. The boxes are what has to wait, so during a sticky week the on-site day can stretch a bit. Pushing cabinet painting through heavy humidity leaves a soft film that scuffs easily, so we let each coat set properly.